The Fox & Pheasant, Chelsea

Spend a good amount of time in various parts of London and despite huge social change since the turn of the millennium a keen eye will begin to note the contrast in hostelries architecture based on geography. 

It’s great fun comparing the different types of public houses across London. Despite different postcodes having varying scales off grandeur to suit and match the taste and means of the local populous there are similarities to be found pan-London. Although until the arrival of the Victorian Gin Palaces, pubs in the west of the city were often more ostentatious than their counterparts in the east. However, this little charmer nestled in the backstreets behind Stamford Bridge, the home of Chelsea F.C., could be a distant cousin of many in the East End. 

The similarities are noticeable in abundance. Tight backstreet, dripping foliage, separate bars, low ceilings with an intimate atmosphere mean I could have been approaching The Coborn in the Cockney heartlands of Mile End or the Pensioner not far from the docks in Poplar.

What pains me is that in the East End not many of the hundreds like this little nook survived. For detailed analysis see ‘Why do pubs close?’ in the pub musings tab,.

This gem almost went the same way before aristocratic warbler James Blunt of ‘Beautiful’ fame bought and preserved it. Purists would be mistaken thinking that he and his team would ruin it and turn it into a toff’s gastro restaurant. I’m pleased to report that is not the case at all and it’s a wonderfully cosy traditional but high end atmospheric pub.

I’d not visited in a year and had forgotten just how good it is as I approached on a Wednesday afternoon post-lockdown. Like all saved pubs it has had to diversify and the balance between restaurant in the conservatory and boozer for imbibing at the front is perfect. Few get this right in rebooted pubs in affluent or newly gentrifying areas and its correct that drinkers are not marginalised.

The food was fantastic and the terrine to start was washed down with a delicious pint of @Truman’s Pale Ale. After not having a pint in a pub (honest) for a month the sweet elixir went down a treat. Roast duck breast was on the agenda for main and almost melted in the mouth. Eating out has been a rare treat for many this year and the whole dining experience made the world feel normal once more.

We were kindly permitted to take our dessert to the pub area. In front of one of two fires we sat at a table by the latticed window bar and finished our drinks, embracing the warm atmosphere of the Christmas season.

The final point to note is the calibre of staff. here I’m certain serving some of the locals from this postcode is (cough) challenging and tests even the most patience persons resolve. In early December 2020 they were quality, especially the two ladies serving lunch. Big smiles mean everything and go a long way to creating rapport and a pleasant experience for both customer and staff.

This pub is well worth travelling for, even just to marvel at its chocolate box frontage and British racing green tiles. I’ll be back regularly and hope others will also visit to support fine independent public houses.